Enjoying Local Produce

The pace of Tokyo can be overwhelming at times, and a brief respite to a quieter place is much needed. Fortunately enough, there are remarkably beautiful places that are within an hour or two from the center of Tokyo. Bordering Tokyo prefecture to the west is Yamanashi prefecture. Surrounded by mountains, the prefecture has scenic valleys and vistas dominated by snow-capped peaks in the winter. More to its scenic value, Yamanashi is known for its produce. Due to its climate with cold and freezing winters and hot summers, Yamanashi vegetables and fruits are of high quality.

One cold winter's weekend, the fennel bulbs decided to go to Kofu, the prefectural capital. The Southern Japanese Alps and Mount Fuji can be seen from various points in the city. The city is also home to the Yamanashi Prefectural Museum of Art, which houses an impressive collection of works by French painter Jean Millet, as well as local Yamanashi artists. 

The museum has a restaurant which serves casual Japanese and Western food. Any order of an entree allows one to have unlimited servings of fresh salad, which can be assembled by oneself from a salad bar. The quality of the vegetables is also superb - haricot vert, onions, rocket, broccoli, and various breeds of cherry tomatoes. Dressings include the usual Japanese-style Wafu dressing, vinaigrette, and cream-based. 

For the entree, burger steak with mushrooms and daikon was ordered (1600Y). Albeit seemingly simple and a typical Japanese take on the burger steak, the decorations indeed reminds one that this is a restaurant in an art museum. The burger is tender and made with choice meat, and the mushroom sauce which is soy-based is delicate to the palate and blends well with the grated daikon topping. The beautiful garnish consists of a scoop of potato salad, a deep-fried slice of lotus, a dried strip of sweet potato, a beautiful flower, herbs, and carrot balls. The burger was served with a cup of rice. 

For dinner, there is an interesting restaurant just a block away from Kofu station that serves only organic produce from Yamanashi prefecture. Local Cafe and Bar has cozy, minimalist interiors and is a great place to lounge in after  a tiring hike in the mountains nearby. 

Yamanashi is known throughout Japan for the quality of its grapes, and for this reason many beverage companies with the likes of Suntory and Kirin have set up vineyards. Some local speciality vineyards still exist, especially in the Katsunuma area, a few stations away from Kofu, and produce red wine that doesn't pale in comparison with wines from countries known for making wine like Spain or Australia. A decanter of local wine made from organic grapes is around 1,500Y. 

A light salad of fresh greens with seaweed vinaigrette was ordered (~800Y). The dressing was a tad too light, but otherwise the quality of the vegetables were definitely good. 

Definitely more delicious though is the grilled vegetables (Y700). The freshness and the goodness of the vegetables were precisely emphasized by being grilled. A bit of olive oil was used and minimal flavours were added - perhaps with a clove or two of garlic, salt and pepper. The vegetables consisted of cherry tomatoes, courgettes, eggplants, broccoli, carrots, and brussel sprouts.

And for the main course, lasagna (1200Y) was had. This is definitely the chef's own version of a lasagna; in addition to pasta, which was thin and light, dauphinoise potatoes were added. The ground beef is local beef which is excellent and tender, and the cream-based tomato sauce inside had a just-right flavour, not too rich. The topping is the unique point of the dish - and on the outset, the lasagna resembles more of a savoury pie at first.

With some speciality restaurants that are so easily accessible, Kofu is a wonderful place for some sightseeing close to nature and a dining experience that enables one to appreciate the local produce, which is by all means of top quality.

*Kofu can be reached on the main JR Chuo line from Shinjuku or Tokyo station, with a change of trains either at Takao station or Otsuki station (around 2 hours 30 minutes). A faster, more comfortable (with reserved seats) but more expensive option is to take the Azusa Limited Express from Shinjuku (around 1 hour and 30 minutes).

Art and Food

Japanese cuisine is very diverse, from its use of ingredients to the cultures that influenced it. Also the range of styles with which it is served and is eaten is just as varied - from yakitori and taiyaki that can be bought from hawkers on the street to the illustrious kaiseki - multiple course meals served artistically that's sure to cost quite a bit. 


Although kaiseki has a reputation for being expensive and not for the masses, some restaurants in Tokyo actually serve affordable versions of kaiseki. The price has to do with the number of dishes served and the kind of ingredients used. Daimasu restaurant in Ginza offers a wide range of kaiseki meals, ranging from the affordable to those consisting of choice ingredients that command a hefty price. 


For starters, the fennel bulbs ordered the most affordable kaiseki which turned out to be a visual feast in itself. Kaiseki just affirms the Japanese affinity to aesthetics, which no doubt extends to cuisine. 

The meal started with a quartet of appetizers - some grated pickled vegetables, sweetened jelly beans, baked scallop and grilled sweet potato, and deep-fried shrimp. Each had its own balance. The baked scallops imparted saltiness, the shrimps a delicate richness, the vegetables a mild acidity, and the jelly beans the sweetness. 

Next is the main course, which consists of four separate dishes - ちゃわんむし (chawan mushi, steamed egg custard with mushrooms), sashimi (tuna, shirmps, hamachi), a warm cup of vinegared rice served on a bamboo plate with shrimps, eel, and vegetables, and miso soup. Plus, some 漬物 (tsukemono, pickled vegetables) was included. 

Firstly, the red bowl that contained the bamboo basket where the rice dish was served was a lesson in compartmentalization. A hollowed lid could hold the side dish of seaweed and sea urchin. After opening the lid, the main story is unfolded - grilled eel, shrimps, some shredded cooked eggs, and vegetables over vinegared rice. 

Next is the sashimi - shrimps which have been blanched, some fish fillets, tuna, and a little block of konnyaku. The ingredients were all veritably fresh. 

The miso soup was also elegant with two strips of fish cake spiraling, some watercress, and a yellow sphere which tasted like quail eggs. 

Finally dessert was served - sweetened red bean pudding with mochi, and pickled plum. 

All in all, at 2,300Y, this was not bad at all. Also, Daimasu is located conveniently right along the Chuo Dori in  Ginza, across the Matsuzakaya department store. 

*Ginza station can be easily accessed by the Ginza, Marunouchi, and Hibiya lines of the Tokyo Metro. Go out through exit A2. 

La Champetre

French cuisine is one of the most enduring cuisines in the world; and perhaps, it is one of those cuisines with a categorized gastronomy. It's one of those cuisines with so many school of thought, as it were, that it seems one can't really venture into it without acquiring a certain level of knowledge. In any case, it shouldn't be reason why the average person should get intimidated from trying French food. 

In contrast to its elitist image, there is regional French cuisine. This is food prepared and eaten by the local people; and this is what comes to mind when one eats at La Champetre ("The Peasant", in English), at the Fort. Previously known as "Je suis Gourmand", this restaurant seems to offer more or less the same selection as its predecessor. 

For starters, the fennelbulbs had soup. First was the gratinated french onion soup (Php140). It was served piping hot straight from the oven. It was rich, with a hint of sweetness from the cooked onions, which was offset by the saltiness of the cheese. 

Next is the soup of the day which happened to be a tomato soup with watercress sauce laced on top (Php180). It was a refreshing respite from the richness of the onion soup. The peppery flavour of the watercress blends well into the tomatoes. 

Next is the salad topped with warm chavignol cheese stuffed in phyllo pastry (Php390). This is a sublime dish and there are many layers to talk about. Firstly the choice of vegetables - courgettes, lettuce, tomatoes, and black olives - blend well to produce an overall slightly acidic taste, much of it imparted by the dressing. Then secondly, the chavignol cheese - goat's cheese - has a tad salty taste to it but rather on the light side, reminiscent of cream cheese. And thirdly, the texture - there's a phyllo pastry that adds a new dimension to the dish. And it's an experience to basically gather a little bite-sized piece of the pastry with the vegetables, and taste them altogether. 

For the main course, trout in mustard sauce was ordered (Php690). Trout is a freshwater fish and so it has a distinct, lingering flavour. The mustard neutralizes the flavour and an overall pleasant tasting dish is the result. The taste is rather Northern European due to the use of mustard, cream, and a fatty freshwater fish. Parsley potatoes and salad are served on the side. 

Last is the very iconic French dish, the Coq au Vin (Php480). This is chicken stewed in a rich red wine sauce. The rich, herby taste can only be acquired through long hours of simmering. The chicken is cooked perfectly such that slicing through the flesh is a very easy task. Carrots, bell peppers, onions, and potatoes are mixed in. It is another homely dish, as it were. 

Dishes are priced reasonably, and the service is satisfactory. With its convenient and quiet location, La Champetre is a nice restaurant serving great food. 

Big and Homely Flavours

This is going to be quite a late post, but the fennel bulbs were in Manila for the holidays, and it was just timely to eat out and celebrate the season. One restaurant that's quietly tucked in Makati's Legaspi Village just a stone's throw away from Greenbelt Mall is the Balkan restaurant. As the name suggests, it serves food from the Balkan peninsula, in particular Yugoslavian (or rather Serbian) food. 

And most of the food were meat dishes with some vegetables. There seems to be no seafood, after all, this is a cuisine from a landlocked country. And the fennel bulbs ordered a rich dish, pork knuckle stew (~Php650). 

The pork knuckles were absolutely delicious. The pork knuckles were cooked for a very long time until it has become very tender. Also, the flavor was rich and concentrated. Indeed this dish conjures images of homeliness, slow cooking in a kitchen, with all the spices and herbs imparting their flavours to the dish in a wonderful way. 

For vegetables, the fennel bulbs had Sarma (~Php250), which were basically cabbage rolls stuffed with minced meat. A rich garlic sauce was used as the base. The dish was served with mashed potatoes. 

In conclusion, this restaurant serves dishes that are big on flavour. A nice yoghurt drink afterwards would be best as a refreshing contrast for all the thick flavours. Overall, Balkan restaurant is worth a visit. 

***

The fennel bulbs were not accustomed to going to the southern parts of Metro Manila, as it was simply too tiresome to get there because of the traffic. But since it was since the holidays, there was not much traffic and they decided to go BF Homes in Paranaque where there are a lot of undiscovered restaurants that should be worth giving a try. 

BF Homes is actually home to a thriving Korean community, which explains for so many Korean restaurants in the area. And the fennel bulbs chose Sam Won Restaurant along Aguirre Avenue. As usual to standard Korean fare, the meal began with a set of appetizers, called banchan (반찬). The diversity of it was quite generous - fried courgettes, tofu, hard-boiled egg in soy sauce, kimchi, spinach, anchovy fry, and baby potatoes. 

Next, kalbi (beef ribs) to be wrapped in lettuce with vegetables were ordered. The flavour of the beef was quite good - it was not too sweet which was all too common with marinades used. The vegetables were in a chili soy dressing. The dish had the delicate balance of richness from the beef and lightness from the vegetables. 

Lastly, kimchi jigae (kimchi soup) was ordered. This is a very delicious dish, and is most ideal food to eat at home during a very cold Korean winter. The flavour was well rounded, and just the same, such flavour must have come from cooking it slowly. The heat and pungency of the kimchi was subdued and developed to a total different flavour, which must have probably been the outcome of mixing it with broth. 

Two dishes were all served with plain rice, and the fennel bulbs couldn't complain with regards to being satiated. A meal for two would cost just around Php600. Price and flavours considered, Sam Won is truly a  bargain! 

And so there goes two restaurants; two cuisines from the East and West - both with rich flavours, evoking feelings of homeliness. :-) 

Wonderful Kichijoji

Away from the chaotic crowds of Shibuya and Shinjuku is the overlooked neighborhood of Kichijoji. A lot of travelers would be familiar with other big places that are serviced by the Yamanote line or by the Tokyo Metro. Kichijoji, on the other hand, is a little quieter and has its own Bohemian feel about it. It is located in Musashino, outside Tokyo's 23 special wards, but just less than half-an-hour's train ride away from either Shinjuku or Shibuya. 

Kichijoji is most well-known for Inokashira park, which the fennel bulbs think to be one of the prettier parks in Tokyo. A lot of performers come here to show off their craft, and a lot of artists and painters also come to this park to sell their works or to just find inspiration. 

And a neighborhood as interesting and lively as Kichijoji is impossible without a selection of very good restaurants and cafes. In fact, some of these need reservations in advance as weekday nights are often very busy, and it is quite often that walk-in customers get turned down. 

A nice restaurant which is frequented by younger people is Medewodine. Another branch does exist in Jiyugaoka. The set menu is moderately priced between around Y1,200 - Y2,000, which includes a cup of soup, salad, and non-alcoholic drinks. For this particular dinner, the fennel bulbs ordered grilled pork fillet with vegetables (豚とろ野菜セット). 

The salad was good, and the dressing resembled the taste of hummus, probably with the use of sesame seeds. The corn soup was a bit anti-climactic however, being served on a simple lightweight cup. 

The grilled pork was delicious. The flavor was mild, as the cooking method is Japanese. The pork meat was also delicious and tender, and the field vegetables blended well with the sauce. The sauce is soy-based and tastes much like Wafu sauce (和風).

Medewodine has a competitive selection of desserts, and since it was almost Christmas time back then, the yuletide apple pie was ordered (1,000Y). The taste was good as it seems visually. The pastry was flaky and the consistency of the baked apples was also very good. 

Another nice restaurant which serves Japanese food is Donburio. The choices are all limited to donburi (rice bowls) only. The most interesting point about the restaurant is its very contemporary interiors with its clean lines and the use of natural surfaces, most notably wood. The fennel bulbs ordered tofu and kelp with soup bowl (豆腐と昆布のスープ丼), Y800. 

Soft tofu was used, and it blends well with the green onions, grated ginger, and the slight saltiness of the kelp. The soup is a bit gelatinous and must have been contributed by the cellulose of the kelp. This is a complete meal in itself as there are 2 side dishes (sweet potatoes and mixed burdock and seaweed). A dessert made of soy with a sweet brown sugar sauce and topped with sesame ends the meal. 

Kichijoji is also home to a lot of bakeries, including Tanakatei which has excellent bread and cookies. The cookies are priced fairly at around Y150 - Y200 per pack (1 pack contains 2 cookies), and as the sticker says, its taste really warms the cockles of the heart. 

But more than the cookies, Kichijoji is a place to warm the cockles of the heart, indeed. :-) 

*Kichijoji can be easily reached from Shibuya through the Keio Inokashira line (17 minutes) and from Shinjuku through the JR Chuo Line (12 minutes).