Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Art and Food

Japanese cuisine is very diverse, from its use of ingredients to the cultures that influenced it. Also the range of styles with which it is served and is eaten is just as varied - from yakitori and taiyaki that can be bought from hawkers on the street to the illustrious kaiseki - multiple course meals served artistically that's sure to cost quite a bit. 


Although kaiseki has a reputation for being expensive and not for the masses, some restaurants in Tokyo actually serve affordable versions of kaiseki. The price has to do with the number of dishes served and the kind of ingredients used. Daimasu restaurant in Ginza offers a wide range of kaiseki meals, ranging from the affordable to those consisting of choice ingredients that command a hefty price. 


For starters, the fennel bulbs ordered the most affordable kaiseki which turned out to be a visual feast in itself. Kaiseki just affirms the Japanese affinity to aesthetics, which no doubt extends to cuisine. 



The meal started with a quartet of appetizers - some grated pickled vegetables, sweetened jelly beans, baked scallop and grilled sweet potato, and deep-fried shrimp. Each had its own balance. The baked scallops imparted saltiness, the shrimps a delicate richness, the vegetables a mild acidity, and the jelly beans the sweetness. 

Next is the main course, which consists of four separate dishes - ちゃわんむし (chawan mushi, steamed egg custard with mushrooms), sashimi (tuna, shirmps, hamachi), a warm cup of vinegared rice served on a bamboo plate with shrimps, eel, and vegetables, and miso soup. Plus, some 漬物 (tsukemono, pickled vegetables) was included. 


Firstly, the red bowl that contained the bamboo basket where the rice dish was served was a lesson in compartmentalization. A hollowed lid could hold the side dish of seaweed and sea urchin. After opening the lid, the main story is unfolded - grilled eel, shrimps, some shredded cooked eggs, and vegetables over vinegared rice. 

Next is the sashimi - shrimps which have been blanched, some fish fillets, tuna, and a little block of konnyaku. The ingredients were all veritably fresh. 

The miso soup was also elegant with two strips of fish cake spiraling, some watercress, and a yellow sphere which tasted like quail eggs. 


Finally dessert was served - sweetened red bean pudding with mochi, and pickled plum. 

All in all, at 2,300Y, this was not bad at all. Also, Daimasu is located conveniently right along the Chuo Dori in  Ginza, across the Matsuzakaya department store. 

*Ginza station can be easily accessed by the Ginza, Marunouchi, and Hibiya lines of the Tokyo Metro. Go out through exit A2. 

Saturday, March 10, 2012

La Champetre

French cuisine is one of the most enduring cuisines in the world; and perhaps, it is one of those cuisines with a categorized gastronomy. It's one of those cuisines with so many school of thought, as it were, that it seems one can't really venture into it without acquiring a certain level of knowledge. In any case, it shouldn't be reason why the average person should get intimidated from trying French food. 

In contrast to its elitist image, there is regional French cuisine. This is food prepared and eaten by the local people; and this is what comes to mind when one eats at La Champetre ("The Peasant", in English), at the Fort. Previously known as "Je suis Gourmand", this restaurant seems to offer more or less the same selection as its predecessor. 



For starters, the fennelbulbs had soup. First was the gratinated french onion soup (Php140). It was served piping hot straight from the oven. It was rich, with a hint of sweetness from the cooked onions, which was offset by the saltiness of the cheese. 


Next is the soup of the day which happened to be a tomato soup with watercress sauce laced on top (Php180). It was a refreshing respite from the richness of the onion soup. The peppery flavour of the watercress blends well into the tomatoes. 


Next is the salad topped with warm chavignol cheese stuffed in phyllo pastry (Php390). This is a sublime dish and there are many layers to talk about. Firstly the choice of vegetables - courgettes, lettuce, tomatoes, and black olives - blend well to produce an overall slightly acidic taste, much of it imparted by the dressing. Then secondly, the chavignol cheese - goat's cheese - has a tad salty taste to it but rather on the light side, reminiscent of cream cheese. And thirdly, the texture - there's a phyllo pastry that adds a new dimension to the dish. And it's an experience to basically gather a little bite-sized piece of the pastry with the vegetables, and taste them altogether. 


For the main course, trout in mustard sauce was ordered (Php690). Trout is a freshwater fish and so it has a distinct, lingering flavour. The mustard neutralizes the flavour and an overall pleasant tasting dish is the result. The taste is rather Northern European due to the use of mustard, cream, and a fatty freshwater fish. Parsley potatoes and salad are served on the side. 


Last is the very iconic French dish, the Coq au Vin (Php480). This is chicken stewed in a rich red wine sauce. The rich, herby taste can only be acquired through long hours of simmering. The chicken is cooked perfectly such that slicing through the flesh is a very easy task. Carrots, bell peppers, onions, and potatoes are mixed in. It is another homely dish, as it were. 

Dishes are priced reasonably, and the service is satisfactory. With its convenient and quiet location, La Champetre is a nice restaurant serving great food.