My Kitchen by Chef Chris

The Oasis Park Hotel at Paco Park in Manila has been around for 20 years. It is one of Manila's first boutique hotels. The vicinity has an old town feel, if not bordering desolateness. This part of the city is closest to where its heritage sites are, but at the same time, it is also one of the most run-down parts of the city. From the manicured newness of Makati or Bonifacio Global City, Paco Park and its environs have a different, if not polarising, effect.

With its unassuming drab exterior, the Oasis Park Hotel is a lesson in understatement. A nice pool, much more so when it is lit up at night, lies in an open area at the center of the hotel. And beside it, is the hotel's restaurant, My Kitchen by Chef Chris. This restaurant serves gourmet food, mostly with an Italian inspiration. The manager greeted us warmly as we walked across the quadrangle, and we were led efficiently to our seats.

One of the specialities of Chef Chris is the toasted roll-up dough called the Panizza with various toppings. The selections and the concept itself is more akin to Italian pizza, but it is thin and delicate enough to be rolled up and eaten as if it were a crepe or a spring roll. One has the choice of either arugula or alfalfa sprouts as stuffing for the roll. The flavours varied from seafood to meat to vegetarian. The fennel bulbs chose the one with shrimps and scallops, drizzled with truffle oil (PHP785).

We were not made to choose as to whether to have alfalfa sprouts or arugula as stuffing. Perhaps the milder taste of alfalfa was best suited to the seafood, while the more bitter and robust arugula went better with cured meat and sausages. Chili oil infused with herbs and garlic was served on the side. The taste was mild, and not all of the strips of panizza had the hints of truffle oil. Sometimes, it was a bit inappropriate to add the chili oil as it obliterated the hints of the truffle oil. But sometimes, chili oil was necessary for more flavour. A bit of a dilemma it was. The dough, on the other hand, was expertly done. The blend of seafood with truffle oil and cheese resulted in a more earthy blend. One could imagine earthen homes with tile accents. The raw greens in the middle were an exercise in contrast. But, panizza, in itself, is a bit of a let-down. The merits of the dish are quite questionable, more so its price, which did not differ greatly from the more opulent entrées.

Next came the entrée, Lamb shank braised in red wine sauce with autumn vegetables (PHP850). One handsome portion of a lamb's leg was served on a big plate, and a rich red wine sauce was smothered over it, and the portions with the vegetables lay on where space permitted the mixture to flow. Beside it was a serving of polenta. The lamb was beautifully cooked, and the flavours were resoundingly delicious; it reminded one of Osso Bucco. One could imagine the lamb being cooked slowly for hours until all the flavours permeated every strand of its fibers, and then one could have baked it quickly to seal all of that richness. As one cuts through the meat, one can appreciate how beautifully each strand of flesh appears and responds to the knife - it is soft, but not to the point of disintegrating - the flesh is rightly intact.

And one has to note how delicious the polenta was! Not the one resembling mashed potatoes, which would be the case with poorly done cornmeal, or instant polenta. It was hearty, chewy in places, and it tasted mildly with cheese, not too salty, but just perfect. Polenta, aside from being a source of energy, is also a good source of fiber, and one can easily get filled with eating just it.

The goods were delivered efficiently; we waited just long enough, not too long to make us impatient, and not too quickly as if it were just a simple cheap case of reheating. The all-female staff were knowledgeable about the food they serve, smart, and had an impeccable sense of service. The panizza was good, but it could be conceptualised better, and the entrée was just breathtakingly superb. Dessert must be tried.

And the fennel bulbs were just glad that they did. Lemon and Lime Cheesecake (PHP320) was ordered. A generous slice of cheesecake was brought up to the table. It was topped with almonds and was slightly soaked in a transparent watery sauce. The sauce tasted like lemon liquor, like limoncello. The cheesecake itself tasted deliciously. The ingredients used must be prime - perhaps mascarpone, amongst other high-quality cream cheeses were incorporated. It was not too lumpy so as to be difficult to swallow, as it is in the case of some cheesecakes. Such consistency can be attributed only to the exactitude of someone who is skilled in the art of making pastries and desserts.The crust was sweet and buttery. It is one top-notch cheesecake.

My Kitchen by Chef Chris definitely knew what its food was. The fennel bulbs felt the connection with the food. And obviously, the chef had his own intimate connection with the items in the menu. There was a sense of trueness between the craftsman and the idea, and an honest and superb product is the result. The fennel bulbs were just glad to have come to Paco Park to try it.