Ikkoryu Fukuoka Ramen

There has been a proliferation of Japanese chains in Manila in recent months. First was the opening of Mitsuyado Sei-men, a Tokyo-based tsukemen restaurant. Another one is Ikkoryu, a Fukuoka-based ramen chain, which opened its first restaurant at Shangrila Mall's East Wing, and its second shop at SM Aura.

Japanese ramen restaurants like Ippudo have opened restaurants in New York , Hong Kong, and Singapore, and it seems that eating Japanese ramen has become quite popular and trendsetting in these cities. Long lines of young people queue just to have a bowl of authentic Japanese ramen. It is very much different from its home country, where ramen is more or less seen as regular food, if not, a way to fill-up oneself after a hard day at work.

The same can be said with Manila's response to Ikkoryu, with lines of people queueing for ramen, at any time during the restaurant's operating hours. The restaurant does not actually accept reservations. The interior's wooden grills and the clean lines of the tables and chairs are relaxing. The staff's giddy Japanese welcome greetings bellow throughout the shop, making the atmosphere quite authentic.

There is a lot of ramen to choose from, most of which are priced at 380Php. Black Garlic Oil and Special Vegetable Paste Ramen were the most sought-after. Fukuoka is the home of tonkotsu ramen, where tonkotsu（豚骨） refers to pork bone broth. The fennel bulbs tried the special vegetable paste which was incorporated into the tonkotsu base. Pork bones yield a rich tasting broth, and evokes very cozy feelings. There's a wholeness of taste which is not achieved by other bases like soy sauce and miso, which are markedly more on the salty side and have a linear flavor. The addition of the special vegetable paste compliments the meaty flavor of the tonkotsu base.

The noodles are hand-pulled, and one can choose as to whether it is moderate or firm. We think firm noodles are the most appropriate, since the noodles being submerged in the broth would in any way cause it to become soggy after some time.

On another occasion, a non-ramen dish was ordered. This time it was yaki tonkotsu, stir-fried ramen noodles with a puddle of tonkotsu soup with chashu and vegetables, very much like a choosey over noodles. The vegetables were fresh and of good quality, and the rather mundane choosey assumed a different form with the noodles and the hearty broth.

The gyoza (150Php, 6 pieces), which is smaller than usual (which is the way they do it in Hakata), is good, if not the best in town.

The only reservation the fennel bulbs have is regarding the servings: it is simply not enough. The soup may be of the right amount though, but more noodles and chashu would probably make the voracious diner happier.