Dim Kitchen

One Saturday evening, the hungry fennel bulbs decided to go to the Global City Fort Bonifacio. Several choices were in mind, and one that predominated the selection was one restaurant that was getting some online attention in the local social networking scene, so we decided to head to Sunshine Kitchen.

Located on the second floor of The Fort Strip, Sunshine Kitchen is clad in dimmer evening interiors, and the bustling of guests was quite upbeat. We were whisked onto our seats and our orders were taken efficiently.

Artisanal pizzas, salads, a few pasta dishes and a selection of meat and seafood dishes were on the menu. For the salads, the Sunshine Green Salad (290Php) was ordered. Mixed greens, almost all of it as lettuce, were mixed in a champagne vinaigrette with bits of Gorgonzola cheese, and walnuts. A certain spicy sharpness could be tasted in the dressing, which was quite good. But the appearance of the salad was lamentable. It looked glum with the lack of color, not a single cherry tomato to provide contrast, and the sizing of the portion gave one the feeling that it was a bit on the exorbitant side.

Next, Porchetta with Rice Pilaf (480Php) was ordered. The porchetta was cooked well throughout, and there were three interesting dips and sauces on the side, including herbed salsa and a beige sauce that was probably apple sauce. The dish could have fared better if a grain-like pasta like orzo were used, or a risotto, for that matter. The porchetta in itself was a bit devoid of flavour, and it did not have the richer aromatics of Cibo's porchetta.

Lastly, Myta's Pizza (Php480) was ordered. Home-made pizza dough topped generously with cheese, tomato paste, bell peppers, and a local sausage called Cabanatuan, a speciality of that town in Central Luzon. The slightly sweet but rich garlic overtones of the sausage blended well with the milder-tasting cheese. However, the weight and generosity of the toppings has made the dough in some parts a bit soggy and one had no choice but to eat it with a knife and a fork. Roasted garlic cloves accompanied the dish.

The fennel bulbs decided to forego dessert, and went off to another place. Still feeling a bit unsatiated, there was some ambiguous points about Sunshine Kitchen that the conscientious diner ought to notice. Whether it was that Cabanatuan sausage appeared a bit more often than expected in the pizza selection, or the glumness of the salad, or whether servers and kitchen staff pronounced porchetta wrongly, the restaurant is sadly missing the groundedness that other restaurants like the Wild Flour Cafe and Bakery have. The end product, which is the dish - its flavors, its organic integrity, what it speaks for what it's worth - all of it - doesn't just fall together into the right places.

Spring

Tucked away in Benavidez Street, Legaspi Village, is a little Hokkien eatery called Spring. This restaurant is owned by the more famous Chinese restaurant in Quezon City called Ha Yuan, known among locals for its delicious Xiamen-style vegetable spring rolls - those hearty rolls of goodness filled with vegetables, tofu, and the occasional strips of meat, often with crushed peanuts and crunchy noodles.

Well, we tried just that in Spring, a variant called the Formosa Lumpia (80Php). The same taste and ingredients as that of Ha Yuan's can be enjoyed. A slightly sweet sauce, in bottles, accompanies the dish, and one can generously douse each bite with the sauce. Most people would prefer eating it with a spoon and fork, but we think it's best done using one's hand, like eating a shawarma.

Amongst other dishes, Maki Mi (140Php) was ordered. Fried fish fillet and a bowl-ful of slightly thick soy-sauce based soup and noodles comprised the dish. On the side, Classic Kapao (70PHp) was ordered - steamed buns with vegetables and pulled pork in between.

Dumplings steamed in soy ginger broth (80Php) was also ordered. Tofu, mushroom, and chives were the filling, although one can also choose to have the a meat filling.

All dishes were quite homely, invoking the heartiness and also the complexities of a Filipino Chinese home kitchen. All dishes in Spring are cooked without MSG, long been the bane of most Chinese restaurants.

As it was on a weekend and being located in a business area, the restaurant was not expecting too many guests and consequently, a lot of the items in the menu were not available. Nevertheless, Spring will undoubtedly delight the throngs of employees who want a good meal at a good price.

Fire Lake Grill

As all of metropolitan Manila bakes under the heat of the summer sun, the fennel bulbs decided to go up the town of Tagaytay, some 50 kilometres away, located on a volcanic ridge that overlooks the very scenic Taal Lake. It has become very famous as a tourist destination for both locals and foreigners alike. In addition, its cooler weather allows one to grow herbs and organic vegetable farming is common in the area. As such, there are countless good restaurants that have set up shop in the area.

The Cliffhouse, located along General Emilio Aguinaldo Highway, is not far from the Tagaytay Rotunda. It is a rather compact complex of quaint restaurants with a commanding view of Taal Lake. One restaurant that has established quite a reputation is the Fire Lake Grill, known in little circles in Manila for its good steaks, amongst other equally competitive offerings.

Two refreshing salads were ordered: blackened beef salad with Asian greens, sesame Thai chilli dressing and blue cheese crumble (Php370), and rare tuna tataki slices with a Nicoise-style salad in lime cilantro dressing (Php330). The blackened beef had a smokey and robust taste to it, and it went well with the sweetness of the dressing. The pungency of the blue cheese added a different dimension. It was an excellent salad. Beef as a major ingredient in a dish could actually be cool and refreshing, as it has been pulled off by this salad.

The tuna salad was also formidable. The tuna was fresh and delicious; it also have often been paired with Nicoise salad as the flavours and textures of both produce a hearty yet refreshing dish. The lime cilantro dressing tasted mildly, which went well with the Nicoise greens (which was dominated by string beans).

Fettuccine pasta in black truffle cream sauce with smoked garlic sausage and shiitake mushrooms (Php360) was ordered afterwards. One had to commend that this was a very good dish. The fettuccine was cooked al dente, and the bulkiness of the pasta was adequately dressed with very delicious sauce. The truffle cream's pungency blended well with the strong flavors of the garlic sausage. The blend of broad and linear flavors from the truffle cream and the vertical accentuation of the sausage was simply delightful.

Lastly, porterhouse steak (1900Php, 700g) was ordered. It was served with red wine shallot sauce, whose dark flavours complement the meat well. The steak was done medium, although there were some parts that were rather cooked unevenly. Despite the absence of collagen in a T-bone steak, some portions were unexpectedly a bit uncomfortably tough. We were just not quite sure as to whether porterhouse steaks were just meant to be tougher on the outer edges and softer as it approaches the bone, or some particular cooking methods could be adopted to ensure an even consistency throughout.

The Fire Lake Grill offers excellent cuisine at reasonable prices. With a breathtaking location, it is indeed one restaurant worth coming back to.

Uno

One Friday night, the fennel bulbs decided to head north for dinner. One restaurant that has built quite a reputation is Uno near the corner of lively Tomas Morato and Scout Fuentebella. This is a restaurant that serves European food, and the menu changes periodically, so whatever the fennel bulbs would be tasting on this night might not be the same a month or two afterwards.

The restaurant has a nice, subtle facade, invoking a stone-coloured Italian house. The entire building seems to have been a house and was just converted into a restaurant. We were seated comfortably on the ground floor. The acoustics of the place were a bit unpleasant, as conversations of diners resonated from the second floor.

Upon ordering, bread and butter were served. The bread was freshly-baked and tasted well. For appetizers, a carpaccio of smoked beef was ordered. The flavours were redolent with the taste of garlic and the combination of herbs as one would find in a bundle of bouquet garni. Carpaccio is the term used for thin slices of raw meat, but using smoked meat could be a safer alternative, more so with the tendency of it to be infected quickly given our tropical weather.

Bacalao and creme spaghetti were ordered next. The saltiness of the bacalao imparted a lot of flavour to the creme. However, the fennel bulbs thought that the spaghetti was a bit too soft to the bite, nor did it have the nuttiness of semolina pasta.

Lastly, sea bream in choron sauce was ordered. To veer off a bit, we did not know what choron sauce was, and we were also quite surprised that our waitress did not know what it was. She ended up asking the kitchen what the sauce consisted of. Considering that it was in the menu, we expected that the staff be familiar with the items.

Choron sauce is a variant of Bearnaise sauce, with the addition of tomatoes. Bearnaise is robustly flavoured with shallots and herbs and goes well with steaks. However, the robustness of the carnivorous sea bream also stands up against a sauce of moderate strength as Choron. The fish was cooked excellently, and both the fish and the sauce blend harmoniously.

The fennel bulbs looked forward to having dessert, which was not on the menu. The waitress directed our attention to the refrigerated display, which was not lit at all. Unfortunately, none of it particularly caught our attention, and consequently, we decided to forego of our dessert and head elsewhere.

In retrospect, Uno is a restaurant that serves good-quality cuisine. However, something is rather incomplete, in a way that we feel no compulsion that one ought to return. Smug halfway between mediocrity and innovation, the fennel bulbs think that Uno can do more.

ダメで。。。

The fennel bulbs were quite surprised to find out that there was a Ma Maison restaurant in Greenbelt. Ma Maison is a famous 洋食 (Western food) restaurant chain in Nagoya. This class of restaurants serves Western food interpreted in a Japanese way. These cafes began in the late Meiji era when Japan began interaction with the West, and these local cafes offered Western food the way it came to be perceived by the Japanese. A post-colonial blend of Eastern and Western elements was engendered, and some dishes like omurice (omelette rice), and various fried cutlets/seafood with curry are manifestations of the Western influence on Japanese cuisine.

As such these cafes have a fairly Western feel to it, but some subtleties like the availability of both fork and knife and the ubiquitous chopsticks, and moist towelettes do remind the conscientious diner that one is in a 洋食 cafe.

The service was fairly good and we were whisked to our seats and our orders were taken efficiently by the waiter. The fennel bulbs ordered for hamburg steak (Php 395), tonkatsu curry (Php 425), and cod-roe (mentaiko, 明太子）pasta (Php 325).

The pasta arrived first. The cod-roe resembled little fish-fry eggs and had a good salty taste to it. Some clams were also incorporated and a light cream sauce was used as the base. The clams seem to have been canned, and the spaghetti was a bit too fat and felt just a tad soggy from al dente.

The hamburg steak arrived. Despite the menu indicating that this was served with potato salad, a cup of steamed rice was served instead. This was quite disconcerting, as we think that the actual dish should be faithful to what the menu says, and any substitutions should be informed beforehand. Upon informing the staff of this incongruity, a cup of potato salad was added (and the steamed rice was not removed). Upon tasting the potato salad, we realised why it was not served - they did not have it readily available. The potato salad simply consisted of boiled potatoes and acrid mayonnaise.

The tonkatsu was likewise disappointing. The breading had a texture more akin to fried chicken, and the pork was too fatty for comfort. Pork belly was used, when chop cuts from sirloin should have been used. This dish comes with a bowl of miso soup and side salad.

The fennel bulbs could only hope that the management considers returning to the essence of what Ma Maison is. It seems that　立ち上がり (tachiagari, or "setting up [a business]") was not done properly, and a restaurant that serves slipshod food was the outcome of such an oversight. It was equally frustrating to note that Youshoku or 洋食　cuisine is a culturally impeccable and thoughtful Japanese interpretation of Western food, and that the quality of the food being offered in Ma Maison's Manila branch is by no means representative of it.

Selection Is Key

Encouraged by the good food at The Fireplace, the fennel bulbs decided to do the Hyatt Hotel's buffet offering in one of their restaurants, Market Cafe.

Even at 8:30 in the evening, the place was still busy, with hotel guests and locals seemingly enjoying the formidable offerings: from Japanese sushi, sashimi, and tempura, to fresh oysters and local lobsters, to roast meats, as well as Chinese and Mediterranean cuisines were all waiting to be sampled.

One can also assemble their own salads. The vegetables were fresh, and the choices of dressings and toppings were likewise good. 

Shrimp, fish, and vegetable tempura were all available. Sushi and sashimi, albeit quite limited, can also be had.

We moved on to the fresh seafood. One can request some fresh local lobsters to be cooked in the grill. Fresh oysters, which were a bit on the small side and which probably came from Capiz, were available. It tasted fresh of the sea, but not as good as other varieties.

We moved on to the Mediterranean spread. One can lament that there were no vegetable dishes like tabbouleh, or dips like tzatziki or hummus, which are available in other competitive hotel buffets and at Viking's. However, there was stuffed pizza, some spreads including tapenade and various cheeses, paella, and one can request for pasta to be cooked with the sauce of their liking. The tapenade was a bit too salty for one's taste, and black olives, instead of green olives, were used. The stuffed pizza was particularly good, though.

The fennel bulbs proceeded to the Chinese spread. Some delicious viands like stir-fried spare ribs and roast pork cha-siu and some noodle soup were available. Overall, the Chinese selection was disappointing, despite the fact that the highly-acclaimed Lili restaurant is in the Hyatt Hotel.

We moved on to the steaks. Roast beef was cut right on the spot, and it was amazingly tender and delicious. For those who can't wait, steaks were readily placed on heated pans. Sadly, they were not cooked well and were all too tough to the bite. Consequently, a pile of sad-looking steaks remained on the pan. The lamb cutlets were more tender and delicious though.

Prawns thermidor was also available, but a dish like this is served best straight from the oven. Buffets should probably properly consider which dishes are optimally served on a buffet spread and which dishes lose character on a buffet spread.

Finally we moved on to the dessert selection. Various tarts, pastries, and puddings tasted good. Succulent strawberries dipped in chocolate looked mouthwatering, but the chocolate used lacked the rich and decadent taste that would have accompanied the tartness well. Even macarons were available, but those were a farce! They were as hard as arrowroot biscuits. Lastly, the milk that came with their brewed coffee was disappointingly cold.

Looking back, the buffet was a bit of a disappointment. At 2,100PHP++, more competitive buffets can be had at a cheaper price. The staff, however, were excellent. The fennel bulbs can only hope that the Market Cafe consider improving their buffet.

The Clubhouse

Just nearby is a new restaurant located in Robinson's Magnolia called "The Clubhouse". Its cool mint green theme and cosy interiors are appealing, and so is the menu, which is comprised of comfort food items (from breakfast-style omelettes to pastas and soups) and rather basic dishes that have stood the test of time. Indeed, any "clubhouse" doesn't stray too far from the norm.

This evening, the fennel bulbs found the Filipino-inspired dishes rather appealing. In the menu were rice bowls mixed with local ingredients like dried fish flakes (tuyo) and local sausages (longganisa). Well, tuna puttanesca (Php185) and Vigan longganisa hash (Php225) were odered.

The tuna puttanesca rice bowl tasted well - the typical flavours of a puttanesca sauce (hinted by the use of mildly pungent capers and acidic black olives) go well with sauteed rice. It was served with what seems to be one of the restaurant's trademarks - the pineapple salsa, which was like a milder version of the Mexican salsa, with less spice, same level of that herby flavor, and the additional pineapple sweetness.

The Vigan longganisa hash tasted well - the mixture of potatoes and longganisa yielded a robust blend of textures and flavours. Together with the scrambled eggs and the rice, it was much like a good Filipino breakfast, upped with a bit of creativity.

Some crisps with three different dips (Php225) were ordered alongside. The crisps resembled Melba toasts and were light, airy, and crispy. The dips were crab and artichoke, garlic and cheese, and spinach. All dips were flavourful, but the crab and artichoke dip did not taste as suggestive as it should be.

On display is a seemingly delectable selection of sweets, which we found difficult to resist. The fennel bulbs tried the carrot cake (Php135) and the lemon square (Php35), both of which are their favourite classic desserts. The carrot cake was moist and tasted deliciously, the white icing done well enough so that it was smooth and there were no sugar crystals. The lemon squares were chewy, as it was probably the intention. However, the citrus component of the flavor was not delightfully citrus enough, and to date, the fennel bulbs would have to say that Mary Grace's lemon squares are still the best in town.

All this goodness was coupled with a lovely cup of coffee (Php85). The Nespresso coffee was brewed well, and the rather touching detail about it was the little cup of steamed milk that went along with it. Unless they're serious about their coffee, only a handful of restaurants would have the sensibility to serve milk, warmed.

Apart from the obnoxious family behind us, The Clubhouse, with its generally good food, impeccable service by a very efficient and friendly staff, and great ambience, is one good place to have breakfast, lunch, or dinner, at a very reasonable price.