Ikkoryu Fukuoka Ramen

There has been a proliferation of Japanese chains in Manila in recent months. First was the opening of Mitsuyado Sei-men, a Tokyo-based tsukemen restaurant. Another one is Ikkoryu, a Fukuoka-based ramen chain, which opened its first restaurant at Shangrila Mall's East Wing, and its second shop at SM Aura.

Japanese ramen restaurants like Ippudo have opened restaurants in New York , Hong Kong, and Singapore, and it seems that eating Japanese ramen has become quite popular and trendsetting in these cities. Long lines of young people queue just to have a bowl of authentic Japanese ramen. It is very much different from its home country, where ramen is more or less seen as regular food, if not, a way to fill-up oneself after a hard day at work.

The same can be said with Manila's response to Ikkoryu, with lines of people queueing for ramen, at any time during the restaurant's operating hours. The restaurant does not actually accept reservations. The interior's wooden grills and the clean lines of the tables and chairs are relaxing. The staff's giddy Japanese welcome greetings bellow throughout the shop, making the atmosphere quite authentic.

There is a lot of ramen to choose from, most of which are priced at 380Php. Black Garlic Oil and Special Vegetable Paste Ramen were the most sought-after. Fukuoka is the home of tonkotsu ramen, where tonkotsu（豚骨） refers to pork bone broth. The fennel bulbs tried the special vegetable paste which was incorporated into the tonkotsu base. Pork bones yield a rich tasting broth, and evokes very cozy feelings. There's a wholeness of taste which is not achieved by other bases like soy sauce and miso, which are markedly more on the salty side and have a linear flavor. The addition of the special vegetable paste compliments the meaty flavor of the tonkotsu base.

The noodles are hand-pulled, and one can choose as to whether it is moderate or firm. We think firm noodles are the most appropriate, since the noodles being submerged in the broth would in any way cause it to become soggy after some time.

On another occasion, a non-ramen dish was ordered. This time it was yaki tonkotsu, stir-fried ramen noodles with a puddle of tonkotsu soup with chashu and vegetables, very much like a choosey over noodles. The vegetables were fresh and of good quality, and the rather mundane choosey assumed a different form with the noodles and the hearty broth.

The gyoza (150Php, 6 pieces), which is smaller than usual (which is the way they do it in Hakata), is good, if not the best in town.

The only reservation the fennel bulbs have is regarding the servings: it is simply not enough. The soup may be of the right amount though, but more noodles and chashu would probably make the voracious diner happier.

Flavors

A new business hotel has sprung up in what used to be a somewhat derelict area of Ayala Center, the Holiday Inn & Suites. As in any decent hotel, buffet is being offered in its coffee shop or lobby cafe. The name is Flavors.

Out of curiosity, the fennel bulbs came to check out the new place. First of all, one should comment about the logistics of the place. As it shared its parking space with the adjacent mall, Glorietta, the lack of signage confused one as to which portion of the basement to park. Moreover, the security personnel did not offer any guidance, and had the least bit of helpfulness in their disposition.

One rides the lift, and goes to the 5th floor where the lobby is. There were signs in the lobby as to where the restaurant was, and where the toilets were, but they were unnoticeable. The signs required one to have good eyesight.

One arrives at Flavors after going down a flight of stairs. The interiors are modern, but it's quite queer that one can not really find a photographable spot, especially inside the restaurant. There were too many wooden walls that blocked the view. There was no focal point, and the buffet table was at one end of the restaurant, as if it were unimportantly set aside.

On the buffet spread were sushi and sashimi, and a variety of cold salads and appetizers. On the other end were the entrées, the meats for carving, and pasta. On another table were some other entrées, and a few Filipino dishes like lechon kawali and kare kare.

The fennel bulbs had to note that the salmon sashimi was frozen. Some slices had red blood marks on it, a sad indicator of its freshness, or rather the lack of it. The rice in the sushi was just too sticky, almost like glutinous rice.

The varieties of salad were quite formidable though. There was a cherry tomato salad in a light vinaigrette dressing that was actually good. There was also beet salad and a cucumber salad in a Thai-style dressing. There was also some Japanese-style pickled vegetables, known as tsukemono（漬物).

Next, we tried some of the entrées. First tried was the fried pomfret with remoulade sauce, and a fried chicken breast in a certain sauce dish which resembled chicken cacciatore. The pomfrets, having been deep fried, had serious textural problems: it basically was too tough. The breading was no longer crunchy, it wasn't particularly soggy, but it had dried out so as to become tough, and the fillets itself were also dry. It seems the cooks were particularly uninformed about deep-frying techniques.

There was also some pad thai on the spread. While some good-tasting shrimps were incorporated into the dish, one had to note that pad thai itself, is a difficult dish to serve in a buffet. The rice noodles are naturally soft and are best served right away. Putting them on a silver dish on a buffet for an extended period of time will allow the noodles to absorb some of the grease and they will become too soft for comfort. The sauce was not good either, there was too much of the spicy and the sweet. There was no sour and piquant in it. After all, pad thai is a difficult dish to muster. One has to be psyched to understand the balance among flavors each of its many ingredients can contribute.

On a lighter note, there was some chicken lollipop on the kid's section, which was actually cooked delightfully well. But pun aside, an Indian lamb shank dish tasted wonderful, the meat softened from slow cooking. One can slowly peel it off the bone with ease. It is best eaten with the crunchy pappadum. Garlic and rosemary potatoes tasted wonderful as well.

Another strong point was the meats for grilling. There was some chicken, pork belly, and snapper. All the meats were of good quality, and their sauce which tasted very Filipino - a sweetened soy sauce mixture with a hint of acidity, with chopped onions added - was likable.

Lastly, it was time for the dessert spread. Much of it, however, did not seem to be good enough, and only a few appealed to the fennel bulbs. There was some tiramisu, which was of generic quality, and a banoffee crumble served on little bowls, which was in itself, a dismal effort to create a banoffee crumble. It was as if one wanted to create a banoffee pie, but had no skill as to create one, and ended up doing something layered that is contained within a dish, very much like a trifle, but still couldn't pull it off.

At 1,100PHP per person, we think this buffet is not at all recommendable. It absolutely pales in comparison with the grander and definitely competitive spread offered by Vikings, and it does not match the ambitions of Hyatt's Market Cafe. Furthermore, the buffet price excluded beverages. We could only hope that Flavors improve their offering, considering that so much more competent dining options are available in the area.

My Kitchen by Chef Chris

The Oasis Park Hotel at Paco Park in Manila has been around for 20 years. It is one of Manila's first boutique hotels. The vicinity has an old town feel, if not bordering desolateness. This part of the city is closest to where its heritage sites are, but at the same time, it is also one of the most run-down parts of the city. From the manicured newness of Makati or Bonifacio Global City, Paco Park and its environs have a different, if not polarising, effect.

With its unassuming drab exterior, the Oasis Park Hotel is a lesson in understatement. A nice pool, much more so when it is lit up at night, lies in an open area at the center of the hotel. And beside it, is the hotel's restaurant, My Kitchen by Chef Chris. This restaurant serves gourmet food, mostly with an Italian inspiration. The manager greeted us warmly as we walked across the quadrangle, and we were led efficiently to our seats.

One of the specialities of Chef Chris is the toasted roll-up dough called the Panizza with various toppings. The selections and the concept itself is more akin to Italian pizza, but it is thin and delicate enough to be rolled up and eaten as if it were a crepe or a spring roll. One has the choice of either arugula or alfalfa sprouts as stuffing for the roll. The flavours varied from seafood to meat to vegetarian. The fennel bulbs chose the one with shrimps and scallops, drizzled with truffle oil (PHP785).

We were not made to choose as to whether to have alfalfa sprouts or arugula as stuffing. Perhaps the milder taste of alfalfa was best suited to the seafood, while the more bitter and robust arugula went better with cured meat and sausages. Chili oil infused with herbs and garlic was served on the side. The taste was mild, and not all of the strips of panizza had the hints of truffle oil. Sometimes, it was a bit inappropriate to add the chili oil as it obliterated the hints of the truffle oil. But sometimes, chili oil was necessary for more flavour. A bit of a dilemma it was. The dough, on the other hand, was expertly done. The blend of seafood with truffle oil and cheese resulted in a more earthy blend. One could imagine earthen homes with tile accents. The raw greens in the middle were an exercise in contrast. But, panizza, in itself, is a bit of a let-down. The merits of the dish are quite questionable, more so its price, which did not differ greatly from the more opulent entrées.

Next came the entrée, Lamb shank braised in red wine sauce with autumn vegetables (PHP850). One handsome portion of a lamb's leg was served on a big plate, and a rich red wine sauce was smothered over it, and the portions with the vegetables lay on where space permitted the mixture to flow. Beside it was a serving of polenta. The lamb was beautifully cooked, and the flavours were resoundingly delicious; it reminded one of Osso Bucco. One could imagine the lamb being cooked slowly for hours until all the flavours permeated every strand of its fibers, and then one could have baked it quickly to seal all of that richness. As one cuts through the meat, one can appreciate how beautifully each strand of flesh appears and responds to the knife - it is soft, but not to the point of disintegrating - the flesh is rightly intact.

And one has to note how delicious the polenta was! Not the one resembling mashed potatoes, which would be the case with poorly done cornmeal, or instant polenta. It was hearty, chewy in places, and it tasted mildly with cheese, not too salty, but just perfect. Polenta, aside from being a source of energy, is also a good source of fiber, and one can easily get filled with eating just it.

The goods were delivered efficiently; we waited just long enough, not too long to make us impatient, and not too quickly as if it were just a simple cheap case of reheating. The all-female staff were knowledgeable about the food they serve, smart, and had an impeccable sense of service. The panizza was good, but it could be conceptualised better, and the entrée was just breathtakingly superb. Dessert must be tried.

And the fennel bulbs were just glad that they did. Lemon and Lime Cheesecake (PHP320) was ordered. A generous slice of cheesecake was brought up to the table. It was topped with almonds and was slightly soaked in a transparent watery sauce. The sauce tasted like lemon liquor, like limoncello. The cheesecake itself tasted deliciously. The ingredients used must be prime - perhaps mascarpone, amongst other high-quality cream cheeses were incorporated. It was not too lumpy so as to be difficult to swallow, as it is in the case of some cheesecakes. Such consistency can be attributed only to the exactitude of someone who is skilled in the art of making pastries and desserts.The crust was sweet and buttery. It is one top-notch cheesecake.

My Kitchen by Chef Chris definitely knew what its food was. The fennel bulbs felt the connection with the food. And obviously, the chef had his own intimate connection with the items in the menu. There was a sense of trueness between the craftsman and the idea, and an honest and superb product is the result. The fennel bulbs were just glad to have come to Paco Park to try it.

Silantro

The Kapitolyo area in Pasig is a paradise for those who love to eat out. The suburban setting removes the typical noise and hyped commercialism of malls, and the calm and secure surroundings give one a peace of mind.

Located along East Capitol Drive, just before the downhill road hits its lowest point and before a newly-constructed church, sits Silantro, which describes itself as a Filipino-Mexican cantina. The fennel bulbs have heard a lot of ravenous praises about its food, in particular the nachos, and they just decided to head out to see what it has to offer.

It seems that the owner is a fan of Lucha Libre, which is Mexico's answer to the American WWF. Posters of masked wrestlers, known as "Luchadores" hang on the walls. One's eyes have to writhe a bit with the excessively white shade of fluorescent lights that serve as lighting, making it feel more like a tacky hospital cafeteria. The owner could have considered using warmer and softer lighting.

For starters, Beef Nachos (PHP160) was ordered. The servings were generous, and as an appetizer, it looked scrumptious. Pleasantly-tasting corn nachos were topped with salsa, guacamole, what seemed to be sour cream, and square chunks of beef. The beef was masterfully cooked - it had the powerful taste of jerky, but it was not dried and tough - it was simply cooked, rightly tendered beef that must have been marinated in a way that only the kitchen staff and the owner would probably know.

Tacos were ordered next. One can choose between one choice of meat, ligero (PHP65), two choices, Medio (PHP85), and three choices, Completo (PHP100). One can choose from beef, lamb, or chicken. Also one can choose between soft or hard-shell tacos. Soft shell tacos were had, with the casing resembling a medium-sized crepe. It was served like an open-face sandwich, with all the meat and the salsa served on top. The meat was prepared deliciously, considering that it was priced too reasonably!

Lastly, Burritos (PHP160) was ordered. The famous Mexican dish is served by a variety of restaurants and food chains in Manila, often with beans. The burrito was served with aioli and a cilantro dressing. The burrito had no beans, but in its place was cooked rice resembling paella, and strands of beef and mushrooms cooked in gravy-like sauce in a way resembling asado. It was good, nonetheless.

We had to wonder why Silantro is a Filipino-Mexican cantina. There were a few points for improvement - there was no dessert menu, and the cocktails needed improvement. The mojito did not taste quite right yet. But the nachos definitely have to be considered as one of the best in town. But as to why it is a Filipino-Mexican cantina, it was probably because the owner knows all too well the virtue of culTural authenticity.

A Sandwich, Deconstructed

Sunshine Kitchen's offerings did not quite make the cut for the fennel bulbs. As they were unsatiated, they headed off to a place that has long established a good track record. Kuppa Roastery and Cafe along 4th Avenue in Fort Bonifacio Global City serves good home-brewed coffee, tea, a formidable selection of dishes for brunch or dinner, pastas, pizzas, and pastries.

This entry will not do much justice to what Kuppa Roastery and Cafe can offer, as only one dish will be talked about in detail: Salmone Affumicato (255Php). Thinking that a sandwich would be light enough as a follow-up to a half-hearted meal, the fennel bulbs soon realised that when the smoked salmon open-faced sandwich soon arrived, they would be getting more than what they initially thought.

Two circles - two slices of smoked salmon fillets, atop scrambled eggs, laced with sour cream on top, and the most sensible part of it was the kind of dough used - a brioche. This is a rather basic combination - smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. But for the same price elsewhere, one would have been given a combination of 80% eggs and 20% salmon - the fillets downsized into shreds. But the salmon fillets were there in its fullness, all of its flavour and nutrition meant to be enjoyed and to be utilised. Both of these ingredients have distinct individual flavours - one of fish, one of poultry; one of the sea, and one of the farm.

The usage of a brioche is definitely sensible. This is bread dough done with more eggs, and amongst other technicalities - it is airier, softer, and richer than the average bun. It has a hint of sweetness almost akin to sponge cake. The smoked salmon and the scrambled eggs are one component - its individual flavors mixing to form something new, one level of comfort. With a brioche, it's two levels of comfort - like a bed with the perfect cushion, and the cosiest sheets.

Some fried potatoes and a salad with a sweet vinaigrette were placed on the side. Some fragrant and relaxing Moroccan Mint (Php125) was had, as drinks.

Altogether, this is one smoked salmon and scrambled eggs that one ought to try.

Dim Kitchen

One Saturday evening, the hungry fennel bulbs decided to go to the Global City Fort Bonifacio. Several choices were in mind, and one that predominated the selection was one restaurant that was getting some online attention in the local social networking scene, so we decided to head to Sunshine Kitchen.

Located on the second floor of The Fort Strip, Sunshine Kitchen is clad in dimmer evening interiors, and the bustling of guests was quite upbeat. We were whisked onto our seats and our orders were taken efficiently.

Artisanal pizzas, salads, a few pasta dishes and a selection of meat and seafood dishes were on the menu. For the salads, the Sunshine Green Salad (290Php) was ordered. Mixed greens, almost all of it as lettuce, were mixed in a champagne vinaigrette with bits of Gorgonzola cheese, and walnuts. A certain spicy sharpness could be tasted in the dressing, which was quite good. But the appearance of the salad was lamentable. It looked glum with the lack of color, not a single cherry tomato to provide contrast, and the sizing of the portion gave one the feeling that it was a bit on the exorbitant side.

Next, Porchetta with Rice Pilaf (480Php) was ordered. The porchetta was cooked well throughout, and there were three interesting dips and sauces on the side, including herbed salsa and a beige sauce that was probably apple sauce. The dish could have fared better if a grain-like pasta like orzo were used, or a risotto, for that matter. The porchetta in itself was a bit devoid of flavour, and it did not have the richer aromatics of Cibo's porchetta.

Lastly, Myta's Pizza (Php480) was ordered. Home-made pizza dough topped generously with cheese, tomato paste, bell peppers, and a local sausage called Cabanatuan, a speciality of that town in Central Luzon. The slightly sweet but rich garlic overtones of the sausage blended well with the milder-tasting cheese. However, the weight and generosity of the toppings has made the dough in some parts a bit soggy and one had no choice but to eat it with a knife and a fork. Roasted garlic cloves accompanied the dish.

The fennel bulbs decided to forego dessert, and went off to another place. Still feeling a bit unsatiated, there was some ambiguous points about Sunshine Kitchen that the conscientious diner ought to notice. Whether it was that Cabanatuan sausage appeared a bit more often than expected in the pizza selection, or the glumness of the salad, or whether servers and kitchen staff pronounced porchetta wrongly, the restaurant is sadly missing the groundedness that other restaurants like the Wild Flour Cafe and Bakery have. The end product, which is the dish - its flavors, its organic integrity, what it speaks for what it's worth - all of it - doesn't just fall together into the right places.

Spring

Tucked away in Benavidez Street, Legaspi Village, is a little Hokkien eatery called Spring. This restaurant is owned by the more famous Chinese restaurant in Quezon City called Ha Yuan, known among locals for its delicious Xiamen-style vegetable spring rolls - those hearty rolls of goodness filled with vegetables, tofu, and the occasional strips of meat, often with crushed peanuts and crunchy noodles.

Well, we tried just that in Spring, a variant called the Formosa Lumpia (80Php). The same taste and ingredients as that of Ha Yuan's can be enjoyed. A slightly sweet sauce, in bottles, accompanies the dish, and one can generously douse each bite with the sauce. Most people would prefer eating it with a spoon and fork, but we think it's best done using one's hand, like eating a shawarma.

Amongst other dishes, Maki Mi (140Php) was ordered. Fried fish fillet and a bowl-ful of slightly thick soy-sauce based soup and noodles comprised the dish. On the side, Classic Kapao (70PHp) was ordered - steamed buns with vegetables and pulled pork in between.

Dumplings steamed in soy ginger broth (80Php) was also ordered. Tofu, mushroom, and chives were the filling, although one can also choose to have the a meat filling.

All dishes were quite homely, invoking the heartiness and also the complexities of a Filipino Chinese home kitchen. All dishes in Spring are cooked without MSG, long been the bane of most Chinese restaurants.

As it was on a weekend and being located in a business area, the restaurant was not expecting too many guests and consequently, a lot of the items in the menu were not available. Nevertheless, Spring will undoubtedly delight the throngs of employees who want a good meal at a good price.