Tokyo for Happy Palates (part 1)

Tokyo and its consolidated metropolitan area is home to almost 30 million people. It is the world's largest city in terms of population, and also is the world's richest. This city is just remarkable, beating with an energy and drive so palpable and restless. And the fennel bulbs definitely love this beautiful and dynamic city. 


With its position as one of the planet's most global of cities, the dining scene in Tokyo is one that a lot of other cities also look up to. The best of Japanese cuisine can be had in Tokyo, and some of Europe's best chefs have opened up restaurants in the city whipping up the best of international cuisine. 

The best of Japanese ramen in Tokyo is served in Ippudo. This restaurant chain has dozens of stores in Tokyo, and has achieved much renown for the savory broth and its noodles which are hand-pulled inside the restaurant's kitchens (separated by glass, one can just watch how the best ramen is spurned). Ippudo already has branches in New York and Singapore. 

The picture above is a bowl of luscious Akamaru Ramen (赤丸ラーメン). It literally means "red bowl ramen" and is tastier and the broth is denser than its white bowl counterpart. A rich mixture of possibly boiled pork and duck bones and miso characterize the soup. Light soy is added as a contrast to the light colour of the miso, and a rich paste of sesame adds a dimension of nuttiness to the dish. 

Accompanying the ramen are 10 pieces of Hakata-style dumplings, also known as gyoza. These gyozas are a bit smaller than the usual ones you'd find in normal Japanese restaurants, but the filling is just bursting with flavour. Together with the ramen, an unforgettable meal at Ippudo that would most likely fill the belly costs around Y1100, and not pricey at all. 

A popular Japanese food that has enamored people around the world and has become almost synonymously associated with Japanese cuisine is tempura. Affordable tempura with high quality ingredients can be had at Tenya (てにゃ). This restaurant chain has a lot of stores within the Tokyo Metropolitan area. 

On the picture above is a tempura rice bowl with the addition of lotus and moriatake mushrooms. One set comprises the bowl with a smaller bowl of miso soup. At Y680, it is reasonable enough. And the freshness of the ingredients just reveals itself within the deep-fried layers of batter which are crisp and delicious. 

(to be continued...)

Homely at Cafe Juanita

Many locals in Manila would prefer eating out in restaurants serving international cuisine, partly because a mindset has been formed that Filipino food can already be had at home, and there are too few restaurants with a concept that justifies the need for a dining scene serving Filipino cuisine. 

But one restaurant is definitely making a difference and the fennel bulbs would love to recommend the
place to anyone wishing to experience the dynamic flavours of Filipino food. Cafe Juanita is located at  
the corner of United Street and West Capitol Street in a quiet neighborhood in Pasig City's Kapitolyo 
district. 

The restaurant's interior is a rather eccentric trip back in time. A lot of antiquities adorn its walls, and a lot of interesting vintage accents add up to the place's overall quirkiness. These are memorabilia from the 1940's and the 1950's, from a time where cigarette packs were collected because their covers were too beautiful to be thrown away, and when magazine advertisements of products like Coca Cola were illustrated by artists. They simply had to be kept. 

The dish above is Cafe Juanita's version of Binagoongan (~Php385, Pork in Shrimp Paste Sauce). Crunchy bagnet (pork belly) was used. The bagoong (shrimp paste) has a sweet hint to it, resembling the flavour of hoisin sauce. The bagoong is not too salty to begin with. 

Next is the Laing (~Php270, pork and taro leaves stewed in coconut milk), which is a speciality from the Bicol region. Usually the dish is made with minced taro leaves (dahon ng gabi in Tagalog), and a considerable amount of pork fat is added to give the dish more zest. Also, chillies which are often used in dishes from the Bicol region, are added. Cafe Juanita's version is not very different, but the minced pork and taro leaves are wrapped in whole taro leaves, which is more aesthetically pleasing. This also seals the flavours inside the filling. 

Another inventive dish is the Ratatoy (~Php220), which is Cafe Juanita's comic take on the French dish, Ratatouille. The French version makes use of eggplants, courgettes, bell peppers, tomatoes, and herbs. This Filipinized version uses the same ingredients but makes use of local herbs like cilantro. The taste is reminiscent of Ensaladang Talong (Eggplant Salad) which is usually dressed in vinegar, fish sauce, tomatoes, and onions. 

Lastly is the heavenly Sansrival (~Php120 per slice). Sansrival is a rich multi-layered cake with nuts and creamy vanilla-based icing. This cake is quite popular among Filipinos because of its sweet, if not comforting, richness. This Sansrival in particular, is definitely sans rival.

If the fennel bulbs would be hosts to guests from a foreign land, they would definitely take them to Cafe Juanita for a memorable sampling of soulful Filipino food. 

Damp and Smug, London (part 3)

London is a wonderful place for shopping. It may be an expensive city, but great bargains and interesting, if not sometimes even bordering on the esoteric, finds can be had in one of its many markets. The most famous of these markets is the Camden Market, which is actually comprised of a multitude of adjoining markets, all in Camden Town. 

Goods range anywhere from vegetables and fruits to antiques in this market. Plus, there is never a lack of good restaurants offering very affordable food in the area, once one goes hungry from all the shopping.

This deliciously spicy lamb kebab is served over basmati rice. The fennel bulbs had this hearty meal from one of those small eating places in the market that serve food from a multitude of world cuisines.

Besides shopping, London also has a rich array of offerings for art-lovers. The world-famous Tate Modern housing contemporary and modern art is located on the banks of the Thames. A restaurant called the 'Tate', located on the 2nd level of the gallery, serves continental and English food.

In the picture above is a hearty hamburger sandwich made from Aberdeen Angus beef, topped with Caerphilly cheese (£11.75). The tomato is topped with aioli, and some Roskilly's farmhouse tomato relish is served on the side. 

Pan-seared fillet of salmon served over leeks with mussels in cider cream (£12). This is a very delicious dish with the flavours of the salmon complementing the strong aromaticness of the leeks. The mussels add another dimension to the very marine nature of the dish and the cider cream unites all the distinct trio of ingredients together. 

Finally, the flourless chocolate cake with mixed berry compote (£5.10) is as sinful as it seems.

Overall, the Tate at the Tate Modern is an absolutely recommendable place for dining in London. Plus, kids can get to eat free as long as the accompanying adult orders a main entree and a dessert from the a la carte menu. With superb views in a sophisticated location and reasonable prices, the Tate is an excellent restaurant indeed. 

Damp and Smug, London (part 2)

The fennel bulbs' gastronomic adventures in London continue - this time, in the rather opulent and artistically quirky neighborhood of Notting Hill. A famous Turkish restaurant can be found in the area, Fez Mangal, along Ladbroke Grove. 

A huge platter consisting of carved mutton that has been roasted on a vertical rotating spit, similar to the roasts used for making shawarma. This dish is known as doener in Turkish. It's served over rice, and has sidings of red lettuce, arugula, and chips. 

Another good thing about Fez Mangal is that they don't charge corkage if one brings his bottle of wine. Of course, red wine goes best with the doener. Prices at Fez Mangal are very reasonable, with an individual serving costing between £7 - £14. 

After a very substantial meal at Fez Mangal, it would be nice indeed to spend some time lounging whilst enjoying some liquor. Also in the neighborhood is the lovely bar, spirit and wine shop, Negozio Classica, located at the corner of Westbourne Grove and Portobello Road. The place is cozy, with a welcoming fireplace lit for the evening. The wine shop also has an extensive selection of Italian wines and spirits, as well as balsamic vinegar. 

To go with the wine is an opulent tray of cold cuts with slices of cheese, olives, and toasted bread on the side. 

(to be continued...)

Damp and Smug, London (part 1)

The fennel bulbs would like to share their gustatory experiences from further afield. They were able to go to London, capital of the United Kingdom. Such a global and major cultural and political city definitely has its share of delightful eats. British food has often been perceived as bland, if not lifeless; but London's multi-cultural atmosphere has created a very exciting culinary scene. A lot of cuisines can be had here, from French pastries to Indian curries and tandoori; from Japanese sushi to North African fare. 

What other way there could be to start a long day experiecning the sights and sounds of London and braving the cold January weather than a wonderful breakfast. A place most recommended is Ponti's, which has branches all over central London, including this cozy one in Covent Garden. 

Ponti's big breakfast ("The Full Ponti") is just as delicious as it is imposing. It is served in a vast platter. A buttered toast sandwich is included on the side. Bacon, scrambled eggs, and Cumberland sausage comprise a very hearty component. For the veggies, grilled tomatoes, mushrooms (fresh), and beans all make this seem an endless exercise in goodness. At around £11, it is worth it!

Moving on to lunch: fish and chips is very filling mid-day treat. Fish and chips started off as a take-away meal in the UK more than 150 years ago and since then has spread all across the English-speaking world. The traditional fish and chips though uses white-meat fish like plaice, and such is the speciality of this restaurant, Rock and Sole Plaice along narrow Endell Street in Covent Garden. 

As can be seen in the picture, the servings are hefty and require a massive appetite to finish them all up - it's probably almost a foot long with equally hefty servings of chips on the side. The batter is crisp and the fish is just soft and tasty as it is fresh. It's a very comforting food to devour especially when it's cold and drizzling outside. Big and delicious fish for just £10 is by all means, not bad. 

It's about time to move on to dessert. In contrast to the simplicity of the fish and chips, there is Laduree, a French pastry shop which has branches all over the world, including this one in Harrods' department store in Knightsbridge. Laduree is renowned for its delicious pastries and since 1862, it has delighted customers with its lovely creations, including its speciality, the macaroon (macaron). 

The rose-infused macaroon is at first a visual masterpiece. In between perfectly-baked macaroons are fresh raspberries, coupled with lychees and rose cream. It is topped with a ribbon with the Laduree sign and served on a gold-lined plate. It would be quite a shame to ruin this beautiful dessert when one eats it up. But the taste is to be remembered. 

Laduree is also famous for its cakes. This chocolate cake is moist with crunchy layers of nougat in between, and resembles more or less a glorified version of our sansrival. The taste is rich, and the overall consistency is just perfect. Macaroons and cakes fall within the £7-£15 range. 

(to be continued...)

Delicious and Shiok at Shiok!

The rich and exciting Asian culinary adventure does not end in Hong Kong. Back home in Manila, the fennel bulbs have heard from their friends a relatively new restaurant that serves delicious and cheap - in fact their friends were all ravenous about it - Singaporean and Malaysian food - called Shiok! located in Fort Bonifacio in Taguig. Shiok is the Hokkien word for "cheap". But in Malaysia and Singapore, Shiok in general is used to convey a feeling of pleasure or happiness. 

Photo-prints of hawker centres line the walls of the restaurant. Hawker centres are places where one can really find good eats, not just in Singapore or other Asian cities like Hong Kong, Bangkok, or Saigon, but probably right in the heart of Manila. Digressions aside, much of the menu of Shiok!, which offers a very brief, if not limited, selection, is largely hawker-inspired. 

For the appetizer, the fennel bulbs ordered Murtabak (Php85), which essentially is roti bread with minced stuffing. It is served with a brown dipping sauce redolent with the flavours of curry and tamarind. It could stand alone as a moderately heavy snack, or if one is on a diet, it can be a meal in itself. The roti is crisp and a bit flaky on the outside, and soft and hearty beneath its initial layers. 

Next, the fennel bulbs had Char Kway Teow (Php140). This is an exciting noodle dish which one can find anywhere from more up-end restaurants to the humble hawker stalls in Malaysia and Singapore. Flat noodles (ho-fan) are almost always used, and the sauce is just exulting with flavour. Chinese sausage, bean sprouts, coriander leaves, and a mixture of fish sauce, soy sauce, vinegar, and other spices, all make this a very happy dish indeed. 

Next in line is a vegetable dish, which is the Sambal Kang Kong (Php65). The kangkong is sauteed in sambal sauce, and the texture is crisp but not too tough to the teeth. Sambal is a chili paste often used in Malaysian and Indonesian dishes. The hint of sambal is enough to dominate the dish, but not too overwhelmingly chili. The addition of probably soy sauce and vinegar adds a softer aspect to it. 

For the first entree, minced beef with eggplant (Php150) was ordered. The dish is mostly Chinese in nature, the sauce being a bit spicy. However, the servings and the plate leave much to be desired, as it seems to work better on a casserole or a similar earthen dish. 

Last but not the least is the char-siu (Php160). This is a very common dish among Chinese restaurants, and is similar to the Filipino asado. The marinade and the sauce are a tad sweet, and the flesh, however, leaves more to be desired, especially when comparing to similar roast pork dishes in Hong Kong. 

Overall, Shiok! is great value for money, if one is on the prowl for something spicy and uplifting such as Singaporean food. 好之！ :-) 

Hong Kong Sampler (Part 2)

A nice and cozy restaurant that the fennel bulbs would almost always come back to whenever they come to Hong Kong is Delicious Kitchen along Cleveland Street in Causeway Bay. It is located in a rather quiet neighborhood, lined with apartment buildings and some speciality boutiques. Delicious Kitchen serves Chinese food, and the menu is quite an eclectic mix of entrees, soups, and noodles. The cuisine is generally Chinese, but not restricted to Cantonese, as some entrees are Shanghai-style and Sichuan-style dishes. 

Condiments are pickled cabbage which is a bit on the sweet side. They are served right after the orders have been taken. The dressing is most probably a mixture of vinegar, sugar, and sesame seeds. Acidity and sweetness are the dominant themes in this condiment, which can become quite addictive especially when one is already hungry!

A speciality of the restaurant is crispy fried dumplings. A majority of take-away orders for the restaurant are actually these fried dumplings, which are served with a sweet-spicy red dipping sauce. The wrappers are crisp and light and the filling is a very delicious mix of minced pork and some vegetables (scallions definitely included). Locals usually eat these with a big bowl of noodle soup or vegetable rice (tsoi fan) on the side. 

The dish pictured above shows a plate of Nanking-style beef and vegetable rice. The beef has been softened but not to the point of becoming mushy. This preparation is typical of Nanking cuisine, where softening of meats is done quite often in a lot of dishes. The taste is rich and suggestive of a rich beef broth for the sauce. 

The vegetable rice is also very flavorful, as the bok choy imparts a buttery flavor to the rice due to the steaming process. It is a very tasty bowl of rice indeed. 

Another delicious treat is the Sichuan-style Chili Prawns. The prawns have been consistently of the same size, which is quite big and a bit tricky to eat with a pair of chopsticks as they do tend to slide off. The sauce is a delicious mix of chili and scallions, amongst other spices, and some peppers; its texture markedly made silky by the addition of starch. The taste is not overwhelmingly spicy, but just enough to tease the palate. A hint of sweetness further enhances the cravings. 

Treats never seem to end at Delicious Kitchen. Another sumptuous dish is the beef tendons cooked on an earthen dish. The sauce is made from the juices of the tendons and perhaps the addition of stock. It is a bit sticky due to the consistency of the tendons' juices. Ginger is the dominant flavor in the sauce, though it does not overpower the dish. 

Last but not the least is the restaurant's signature dish, pork chop rice. The picture above shows only some of the pork chop. The rice is exactly the same as the bowl of vegetable rice shown earlier. The meat is tender and tasty, and the breading is crunchy. The flavor is a blend of sweet and salty, somewhat like barbecue. This is comfort food at its best, and is by all means, the best-selling dish DelIcious Kitchen has to offer. 

Prices are likewise affordable by Hong Kong standards. A meal for four hungry people sharing some viands would cost anywhere between HK$350 - HK$500. And this ends the fennel bulb's Hong Kong sampler of restaurants, at least for the time being.